Abercrombie & Fitch “Shipmate” Automatic Watch (c. 1938) Service
Introduction
This case study documents the service and repair of a vintage Abercrombie & Fitch Shipmate powered by a Mido bumper automatic movement. These watches are notable for their early automatic winding system and practical, utilitarian design. This example required a complete mechanical service to restore reliable operation and address performance issues common to bumper automatic movements.
Key Characteristics of the Movement and Initial notes
Inspection indicates that the movement is in serviceable condition. The hairspring has old sticky oil on the coils causing the watch to run fast and erratically (that will be remedied during the service). The movement had not been serviced in many decades, and the lubricants had dried and hardened in some locations. One important characteristic of this movement is that it cannot be wound by hand. Unlike most automatic watches with manual winding capability, this example of the bumper automatic relies entirely on motion to wind the mainspring. As a result:
- The watch must be worn or moved to start running
- If not in motion enough while worn, it may stop overnight
- It is often necessary to reset the time each morning depending on the previous day’s activity level
This is normal behavior for this particular automatic design and not a defect. After servicing, the watch demonstrated improved winding efficiency and very accurate operation.
Service Procedure
The watch underwent a complete mechanical overhaul, including:
- Full disassembly of the bumper automatic movement
- Inspection of the winding rotor, springs, and bumper system
- Ultrasonic cleaning of all movement components
- Lubrication using modern synthetic oils
- Regulation for stable timekeeping within the limits of the design
Servicing your Vintage Watch
If you own a vintage automatic watch, bumper automatic, or early Mido timepiece in need of service, I invite you to contact me to discuss your watch, or or visit getting started. Each piece is carefully evaluated to determine the most appropriate repair and preservation approach.
For additional information on watches we work on please visit these pages: Vintage Rolex repair— Vintage Breitling repair —Vintage Omega repair — Vintage Heuer repair —Bulova Repair, and Pocket Watch Repair. See my FAQ for additional information, and visit Watch Repair Case Studies.
Reassembly after Cleaning
Brief History of the Shipmate and Mido Bumper Automatics
During the mid-20th century, Abercrombie & Fitch retailed a variety of rugged and purpose-built watches, often sourcing them from established Swiss manufacturers. The “Shipmate” line was designed as a durable, water-resistant wristwatch suited for outdoor and maritime use.
Many of these movements were produced by Mido. The bumper automatic system used in these watches predates modern full-rotor automatics. Instead of rotating freely 360 degrees, the rotor swings back and forth, striking spring buffers—“bumping” at each end of its travel to wind the mainspring.