Using aftermarket parts for vintage Rolex movements—especially those no longer supported by Rolex—can be a controversial subject. Because only Rolex Authorized Service Centers have access to new OEM parts, most independent watchmakers are limited when it comes to sourcing genuine movement components. This reality calls for an honest discussion about the use of high-quality generic … Continue reading Rolex Parts-The use of aftermarket/generic parts
Top 4 Vintage Chronographs Recommended by a Watchmaker
When it comes to collecting vintage chronograph watches, choosing the right piece involves more than just looks or brand recognition—especially if you're planning to wear and maintain the watch for years to come. As a watchmaker, I've serviced countless chronographs and have come to appreciate certain models not only for their history and aesthetics but … Continue reading Top 4 Vintage Chronographs Recommended by a Watchmaker
SERVICE & REPAIR: Vintage LeCoultre Automatic with Power Reserve Indicator
The LeCoultre automatic calibre 481 movement underwent a comprehensive professional service to ensure optimal performance and longevity. The service began with a complete disassembly of the movement, allowing for a thorough inspection of each individual component. All parts were cleaned both by hand and in a professional cleaning machine to remove old lubricants, dirt, and debris, then … Continue reading SERVICE & REPAIR: Vintage LeCoultre Automatic with Power Reserve Indicator
Rolex Explorer II: Rust Repair Model 1655 with 1570 movement
Here is yet another example of a Rolex that came into the shop with rust damage. The water intrusion spared the greater portion of the movement from corrosion, but it did severally damage the date wheel seating ring. This part gently holds the date wheel, using three jewels to allow ring to rotate silky smooth. … Continue reading Rolex Explorer II: Rust Repair Model 1655 with 1570 movement
SHORT: Did You Know? Rolex BubbleBack
Rolex’s first automatic watch was released in the 1930s. The automatic module was an add on to an existing caliber, and made the watch much thicker, thus the case back bulged out giving this watch the nickname “Bubbleback “
Universal Genève Polerouter Vintage Watch Service & Repair
Movement and Service This Universal Genève Polerouter, an early model fitted with the original Caliber 138 SS bumper automatic movement introduced in 1948, offers a glimpse into vintage Swiss watchmaking. Unlike the later 215-27 micro-rotor versions, this bumper-style movement—though less efficient than full rotor automatics—was found to be in very good mechanical condition. Featuring anti-shock … Continue reading Universal Genève Polerouter Vintage Watch Service & Repair
Rado Green Horse De Luxe Service & Repair
Servicing the Rado The service of the Rado Green Horse wristwatch, powered by the 17 jewel A. Schild 1700 automatic movement, began with a full disassembly to assess the condition of each component. This mid-century Swiss caliber is known for its robust design, and reliable bidirectional winding system, making it a popular choice in many … Continue reading Rado Green Horse De Luxe Service & Repair
Should I have my vintage watch serviced: Cost verses value
Have you recently acquired a vintage or antique mechanical watch? Perhaps you've inherited a classic timepiece passed down through generations, or you've begun building a personal collection of vintage watches for their beauty, history, and craftsmanship. As interest in vintage watch collecting grows, so does the importance of proper care and maintenance. One of the most common questions among collectors and … Continue reading Should I have my vintage watch serviced: Cost verses value
SERVICE & REPAIR: Vintage Movado Datron HS 360 Chronograph
Today I’m servicing the Movado Datron HS 360. This Movado featured the Zenith 3019 PHC movement (also used in the Zenith El Primero). Released around 1969, it was touted as the first automatic chronograph (although both Heuer And Seiko were close to follow with their Chronomatic and Speedtimer). It featured 60 sec./30 min./12 hour count … Continue reading SERVICE & REPAIR: Vintage Movado Datron HS 360 Chronograph
The Traditional Watchmaker- a Historical Perspective
When searching online for someone to fix your timepiece, you might use terms like antique watch repair, vintage watch repair, or even old hand-wound watch repair. However, one term that’s often overlooked is “watchmaker.” While it may sound outdated, “watchmaker” traditionally refers to a skilled professional trained in the art of mechanical watch restoration and repair—long before battery-operated quartz … Continue reading The Traditional Watchmaker- a Historical Perspective