Using aftermarket parts for vintage Rolex movements—especially those no longer supported by Rolex—can be a controversial subject. Because only Rolex Authorized Service Centers have access to new OEM parts, most independent watchmakers are limited when it comes to sourcing genuine movement components. This reality calls for an honest discussion about the use of high-quality generic … Continue reading Rolex Parts-The use of aftermarket/generic parts
Category: Service and repair
Top 4 Vintage Chronographs Recommended by a Watchmaker
When it comes to collecting vintage chronograph watches, choosing the right piece involves more than just looks or brand recognition—especially if you're planning to wear and maintain the watch for years to come. As a watchmaker, I've serviced countless chronographs and have come to appreciate certain models not only for their history and aesthetics but … Continue reading Top 4 Vintage Chronographs Recommended by a Watchmaker
Should I have my vintage watch serviced: Cost verses value
Have you recently acquired a vintage or antique mechanical watch? Perhaps you've inherited a classic timepiece passed down through generations, or you've begun building a personal collection of vintage watches for their beauty, history, and craftsmanship. As interest in vintage watch collecting grows, so does the importance of proper care and maintenance. One of the most common questions among collectors and … Continue reading Should I have my vintage watch serviced: Cost verses value
SERVICE & REPAIR: Vintage Movado Datron HS 360 Chronograph
Today I’m servicing the Movado Datron HS 360. This Movado featured the Zenith 3019 PHC movement (also used in the Zenith El Primero). Released around 1969, it was touted as the first automatic chronograph (although both Heuer And Seiko were close to follow with their Chronomatic and Speedtimer). It featured 60 sec./30 min./12 hour count … Continue reading SERVICE & REPAIR: Vintage Movado Datron HS 360 Chronograph
Choosing the Right Person to Repair your Vintage Watch
“When your watch gets out of order you have a choice of two things to do: throw it in the fire or take it to the watch-tinker. The former is the quickest.”-Mark Twain Choosing the right watchmaker to service your vintage mechanical watch is a decision that can have a lasting impact on the longevity … Continue reading Choosing the Right Person to Repair your Vintage Watch
Pivot Repair Gruen Veri-Thin 420SS circa 1943
Here is an example of a pivot repair on a 1940s Gruen Veri-Thin. As seen in the picture, the upper pivot of the center wheel has deep groves worn for years of running, perhaps without lubricant. This is tricky repair as this calibre has a center sweep second hand, and the center post is hollow. … Continue reading Pivot Repair Gruen Veri-Thin 420SS circa 1943
SERVICE & REPAIR: Roskopf Pocket Watch Pin-pallet Escapement
Georges Frederic Roskopf was a watchmaker during the mid-1800s. He developed the pin-pallet escapement (an easily and cheaply manufactured escapement used in inexpensive watches). His objective was to produce an affordable decent quality pocket watch, and that he did. This example is a plain, utilitarian, practical, and serviceable watch. Built well enough to be restored … Continue reading SERVICE & REPAIR: Roskopf Pocket Watch Pin-pallet Escapement
Antique Pocket Watch repair log: Elgin Father Time Railroad Watch with up-down indicator
Shattered cap jewel This antique Elgin Father Time Railroad pocket watch came to the shop in relatively good shape, but it had many repair issues. The balance staff had a broken pivot, the lower escape wheel cap jewel was shattered, the lower second hand wheel jewel was cracked, and the seconds hand lower pivot was … Continue reading Antique Pocket Watch repair log: Elgin Father Time Railroad Watch with up-down indicator