Using aftermarket parts for vintage Rolex movements—especially those no longer supported by Rolex—is a controversial topic. Many independent repair shops don’t discuss the use of generic parts in the repair of vintage Rolex pieces, but I think this topic needs to be honestly addressed. As Rolex discontinues support for older calibers, watchmakers are often left with limited options to keep these timepieces running. While purists may object to anything non-genuine, responsible use of high-quality aftermarket components can be a practical and respectful way to preserve functionality and extend the life of these important watches.
In vintage Rolex watches, several components are particularly prone to wear and need to be replaced due to wear or corrosion. In many cases, wear at friction points on the main plate, such as the pivot hole for the intermediate setting wheel, can be repaired in the shop using accepted repair techniques. This is also true of pivot repair and bushing installation. But commonly affected parts that have to be replaced include jewels—especially those in high-friction zones—as well as automatic weight axles, winding and setting clutches/pinions, stems, mainsprings, and the balance staff. The set lever and its securing screw are also frequent points of failure. While many of these parts can still be found as new old stock (NOS), verifying their authenticity can be challenging, as counterfeit packaging and components have become more sophisticated—leading to the risk of paying premium prices for non-OEM parts. Precision micro machine shops can manufacture replacements, but at a significant cost and this option is really no different than quality overseas manufactured generic parts. Thus, when well-made generic parts are available for a reasonable price, many watchmakers opt for them—provided they meet strict quality standards and pose no risk to the movement’s function or longevity. Ultimately, it becomes a balance between authenticity, cost, and the watch’s long-term performance.
When working on models that Rolex no longer supports, and with the owner’s approval, I do offer the option of using high-quality aftermarket movement parts. These parts are chosen carefully for their quality and reliability. Crystals and gaskets are generally aftermarket replacements unless the owner specifically requests OEM.
If you have concerns about parts or would like to discuss the repair options for your vintage Rolex, feel free to contact me directly.
If you would like to initiate the repair of your vintage timepiece, be sure to visit getting started. For additional information on watches we work on please visit these pages: Vintage Rolex repair, Vintage Breitling repair, Vintage Omega repair, and Vintage Heuer repair.
