Last updated on August 5th, 2025 at 11:48 am
Using aftermarket parts for vintage Rolex movements—especially those no longer supported by Rolex—can be a controversial subject. Because only Rolex Authorized Service Centers have access to new OEM parts, most independent watchmakers are limited when it comes to sourcing genuine movement components. This reality calls for an honest discussion about the use of high-quality generic parts. Owners of modern Rolex watches still have the option to send their timepieces to Rolex for service, but as the company discontinues support for older calibers, that option disappears. Independent watchmakers are then left with few choices for keeping these vintage watches running. While purists may object to anything non-original, the careful use of well-made aftermarket parts can be a practical and respectful solution—one that preserves both the function and longevity of these timepieces.
First of all, let’s state the facts (as the law stands at this moment). Legally, using generic or aftermarket parts in the repair of vintage Rolex watches is not prohibited, but there are important considerations—especially when it comes to disclosure during resale. According to an article by the law firm Moses & Singer, “The use of generic parts in a Rolex watch, while not illegal per se, may render the watch a counterfeit if it is represented as being 100% genuine.” (source). This means that while independent watchmakers are within their rights to use high-quality aftermarket components to maintain functionality, any misrepresentation—intentional or not—can lead to legal complications. Therefore, if a Rolex or any other high-end watch has been serviced by an independent watchmaker and may include non-OEM parts, full disclosure should be made when selling the watch, even in a private transaction. Transparency not only protects the seller legally, but also preserves trust and integrity within the watch collecting community. It is also important to note that Rolex often will not service a piece if it has been previously serviced by an independent shop.
In vintage Rolex watches, a number of components are especially prone to wear or corrosion and often require replacement. In many cases, wear at friction points on the main plate, such as the post for the intermediate setting wheel, can be repaired in the shop using accepted repair techniques. This is also true of pivot repair and bushing installation. But commonly affected parts that have to be replaced include jewels—especially those in high-friction zones—as well as automatic weight axles, winding and setting clutches/pinions, stems, mainsprings, and the balance staff. The set lever and its securing screw are also frequent points of failure. While many of these parts can still be found as new old stock (NOS), verifying their authenticity can be challenging, as counterfeit packaging and components have become more sophisticated—leading to the risk of paying premium prices for non-OEM parts. Precision micro machine shops can manufacture replacements, but at a significant cost and this option is really no different than quality overseas manufactured generic parts. Thus, when well-made generic parts are available for a reasonable price, many watchmakers opt for them—provided they meet strict quality standards and pose no risk to the movement’s function or longevity. Ultimately, it becomes a balance between authenticity, cost, and the watch’s long-term performance.
When working on models that Rolex no longer supports, and with the owner’s approval, I do offer the option of using high-quality aftermarket movement parts. These parts are chosen carefully for their quality and reliability. Crystals and gaskets are generally aftermarket replacements unless the owner specifically requests OEM.
If you have concerns about parts or would like to discuss the repair options for your vintage Rolex, feel free to contact me directly.
If you would like to initiate the repair of your vintage timepiece, be sure to visit getting started. For additional information on watches we work on please visit these pages: Vintage Rolex repair, Vintage Breitling repair, Vintage Omega repair, and Vintage Heuer repair.
