“When your watch gets out of order you have a choice of two things to do: throw it in the fire or take it to the watch-tinker. The former is the quickest.”-Mark Twain
Choosing the right watchmaker to service your vintage mechanical watch is a decision that can have a lasting impact on the longevity and value of your timepiece. While the term “watchmaker” may suggest someone who builds watches from scratch, it traditionally refers to a skilled craftsperson who specializes in the repair and restoration of mechanical movements. In today’s market—where original parts are scarce and historical integrity matters—finding a qualified watchmaker is more important than ever. Before entrusting your antique or vintage watch to someone, it’s essential to understand the what is involved in proper mechanical watch repair.
Watch Repair Necessary skills:
Basic Skills need for Watch Repair
When choosing someone to service or repair your vintage mechanical watch, it’s important to understand the specialized skills required to do the job correctly. Vintage watch repair involves far more than basic disassembly and cleaning. it requires precision, experience, and a deep understanding of historical watch movements. From disassembling delicate components to diagnosing worn parts and making precise timing adjustments, a qualified watchmaker must possess the technical expertise required. The following is a list of essential skills every professional should have when offering vintage watch repair services.
- Familiarity with the theory of watch mechanics and terminology.
- Finding the parts. (Being familiar with suppliers, networking, and independent suppliers)
- Owning the proper tools (a seemingly endless process)
- Possessing the manual dexterity & patience needed to dismantle completely, clean, inspect, reassemble, oil, and regulate (time) the watch.
- Make repairs to the case i.e. case tube replacement, pusher service or replacement
- Replace a balance staff.
- Skill in operating a lathe for common repairs
- Make a judgment call to refer the repair if what is needed is beyond their skills.
This final skill is especially important in the world of vintage watch repair. With so many types of mechanical watches—ranging from simple time-only models to complex chronographs and minute repeaters—no single watchmaker can master every movement or brand. A knowledgeable and honest watch repair professional will recognize their limitations and, when necessary, refer the job to a specialist with the appropriate expertise. This level of integrity is essential when trusting someone with your vintage timepiece, ensuring the repair is handled correctly and with care.
Beyond the Basics
In addition to the fundamental skills required for watch repair, there are advanced watchmaking techniques that are essential for servicing vintage and complicated timepieces. These higher-level skills go beyond routine cleaning and oiling and include tasks such as hairspring manipulation, precision timing adjustments, gear train diagnostics, and fabrication of obsolete parts. Mastery of these specialized abilities is crucial when working on intricate vintage watches, chronographs, or rare movements no longer supported by manufacturers. For collectors and enthusiasts seeking expert vintage watch repair, identifying a watchmaker with these advanced capabilities can make the difference between a simple service and a proper restoration. Advanced skills include:
- Possess the ability to make fine adjustments to a watch to obtain peak performance.
- Manufacture parts needed, including balance staffs, flat springs, and flat elements such as set bridges, stems.
- Repair broken pivots.
- Replace jewels and make new jewels settings.
- Make positional adjustments to match (as close as possible) original factory specifications.
- Manipulate hairsprings (the very tiny springs that oscillate the balance wheel)
- Vibrate a new hairspring to an existing balance wheel
- Use methods and materials original to the period of the watch
Watch Repair Education
Accreditation is available but limited. The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) offers certification to those who complete educational courses. A small number of schools throughout the world offer certifications using the “Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program” (WOSTEP). The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) offers workshops throughout the United States.
Formal education is an option, but the drawback is that only a handful of these schools are left now. Some contemporary watch companies offer schooling (such as Rolex’s Lititz Watch Technicum in Pennsylvania) but can only turn out a handful of graduates a year. Apprenticeship under a master watchmaker is an option, but finding someone willing to take that on is difficult. That means that many qualified watchmakers/repairers do not have a formal education (or apprenticeship), and have learned their skills on there own.
When to have the manufacturer repair your watch
In general, high-end newer timepieces are often best serviced by an authorized repair center. Manufacturer repair facilities typically have access to original parts, the latest service tools, and brand-specific training, helping ensure the work meets factory standards. This can be especially important for maintaining warranty coverage and preserving resale value. However, when it comes to vintage watches—especially those older than a decade—the situation becomes more complex. Major brands like Rolex, Omega, and Breitling have discontinued support for many of their older movements, often refusing service for watches they no longer carry parts for. In addition, countless vintage watch brands are now defunct, making manufacturer service impossible. For these timepieces, a skilled independent watch repair shop becomes essential. A professional watchmaker with experience in vintage watch repair can restore older watches with the proper care, often sourcing rare or compatible parts and applying traditional techniques to keep these historic timepieces running for years to come.
So, how to select a watchmaker?
So, how does one decide who is qualified to work on your watch? One factor is establishing a level of trust with the person that is servicing your watch. This trust is especially important as it is often necessary to handle the repair of an antique timepiece via mail from a business whose storefront is a website. Look on their website for a list of watches they have worked on. Look for an “about me” or “about us” section on the site. Contact the site and speak on the phone with them to get a better idea of their experience.
There are other factors to be considered, but hopefully, this information helps lay the groundwork needed to find a competent watchmaker. Another good article on watch repair can be found at Gear Patrol.
If you are interested in having your vintage or antique watch repaired or restored, please visit my website TimePieceShoppe.
